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Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade
draginja.maskareli@mpu.rs
??? ?????? ? M?????: ???????? ????????? ? ???? ? ?????? ? XIX ? ???????? XX ????
THE THREE DRESSES IN THE MUSEUM: MUSEUM THESAURI AND FASHION IN SERBIA IN THE 19TH AND EARLY 20TH CENTURIES
Journal 19/2023 (Museum of Applied Art), pages 53-63
Article category: original scientific paper
UDC:
391(497.11)"18/19"
069.51:745/749(497.11)
Abstract (original language):
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Key words: (original language)
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Summary:
Public collections of clothes are one of the main sources for the studies of fashion in Serbia during the 19th and early 20th centuries. The basic selection criteria during the formation of these collections were the aesthetic and artistic values of fashion items, as well as their national symbolics. For that reason, researchers of 19th and early 20th-century Serbian fashion often have to cope with insufficiently documented and systematized thesauri, undeveloped terminology, and a lack of information. The biographies of individual items are a segment of the thesaurus documentation that has not been given enough attention; today for many of them we have no information when and by whom they were worn. Using the example of three museum fashion items dresses, MAA, accession nos. 5593, 5207, and 22891 from the collection of the Museum of Applied Art in Belgrade, which were made and worn as wedding dresses in Serbia in the period from 1878 to 1911 this paper follows the use and development of their documentary measure through interpretation and communication at various museum exhibitions. By comparing the dynamics of their presentation, we can conclude that, in addition to the collecting and exhibition policy of the museum, as well as the properties of the object itself, the documentary measure has an important role in the interpretation and communication of museum thesauri and fashion. In the present time, the three dresses in the Museum, as fashion items worn in Serbia in the past, not only inform us about changes in fashion trends. Considered a part of visual culture, they testify to different cultural models, ideological and social frameworks in which trends were created and developed.
Translated by the author
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