Journal 11 / 2015 (Museum of Applied Art. Online)

ISSN 2466-460X (Online)
ISSN 0522-8328 (Printed edition)
PDF of the printed edition (7.0 MB)
Editor in Chief: Ljiljana Mileti? ?bramovi?, MA
Issue Editor: Draginja Maskareli
Editorial Board:
Sarita Vujkovi?, PhD (Academy of Arts, Banja Luka)
Marta Vukoti? Lazar, PhD (Faculty of Philosophy, Pritina)
Draginja Maskareli (Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade)
Ljiljana Mileti? Abramovi?, MA (Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade)
Jelena Pera?, MA (Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade)
Vladimir Simi?, PhD (Faculty of Philosophy, Belgrade)
Maja Studen Petrovi?, MA Jelena Popovi?(Faculty of Applied Arts, Belgrade)
Issue Editorial Assistant: Jelena Popovi?
All the papers in the sections Contributions, Polemics, Critic Reviews and Reviews are peer reviewed.Sarita Vujkovi?, Ph.D., Assistant Professor, University of Banja Luka, Academy of Arts Graphic Design Department
Biljana Vukoti?, Senior Curator, Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade
Marta Vukoti? Lazar, Ph.D., Assistant Professor, University of Pritina, Faculty of Philosophy History of Art Department
Slobodan Jovanovi?, Curator, Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade
Miodrag Markovi?, Ph.D. Professor, University of Belgrade, Faculty of Philosophy History of Art Department
Draginja Maskareli, Senior Curator, Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade
Ljiljana Mileti? Abramovi?, MA, Curator, Museum Advisor, Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade
Radivoj Radi?, Ph.D. Professor, University of Belgrade, Faculty of Philosophy History Department
Jelena Seni?i? Vilimanovi?, MA, Belgrade Polytechnics, Belgrade
Vladimir Simi?, Ph.D., Assistant Professor, University of Belgrade, Faculty of Philosophy History of Art Department
Maja Studen Petrovi?, MA, Assistant Professor, University of Arts in Belgrade, Faculty of Applied Arts Costume Design Department
Jelena Pera?, MA, Senior Curator, Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade
Mirjana Proi?-Dvorni?, Ph.D. Professor, Northwood University, Midland, Michingan
Andrijana Risti?, MA, Senior Curator, Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade
Irfan Hoi?, Ph.D., Assistant Professor, University of Biha?, Faculty of Technical Engineering Textile Department
Biljana Crvenkovi?, Curator, Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade
Simona ?upi?, Ph.D., Associate Professor, University of Belgrade, Faculty of Philosophy History of Art Department
Rastko ?iri?, MA, Associate Professor, University of Arts in Belgrade, Faculty of Applied Arts Applied Graphics Department
Contents of the Jouurnal 11 / 2015 (Museum of Applied Art. Online)
Impressum
Contents
FASHION PRESS IN SERBIA IN THE 20 CENTURY
???????? XX ???? ? ??????? ? ??????? ?????? ??? ??????? ????, ?????? ? ?????? ??????? ?? ???????? ??????, ??? ?? ???? ?????????? ? ????? ????????? ?????? ??????? ???????, ??? ?? ?? ????????? ?????? ???????? ????, ??????? ????, ?????????????? ???????. ?? ??????? ????????? ?????? XX ???? ??????? ????? ?? ?? ?????? ??????? ?? ??????, ??? ?? ???? ???????????????? ? ?????? ? ????????? ??????? ??????? ?????????????? ?????????. ?? ???? ?????????? ? ??????????? ?????? ??????????????? ?? ????? ?????????????? ?????? ???????, ??? ?? ?????????? ?????? ????????? ??????? ?????? ??????? ???????? ? ??????????? ????? ?? ????????? ??????? ? ?????? ??????.
??? ???? ?? ?? ????? ?????? ???????? ? ????????? ? ????????? ??????? ? ?????? ?? ???????? ???????? ???? ????????, ??? ? ?? ?? ??????? ???? ???????? ??????? ??????? ????? ?? ????????? ? ????????? ??????? ? ?????? XX ????.
In the early 20th century and especially between the two world wars, in accordance with the rise of mass culture, press in Serbia followed the models set by European press.
Quite oppositely, after World War II, a new socialist culture took shape which would, since the mid-1950s, begin to seek stylistic models in the West, reinterpreting them according to the then current tastes of the socialist community. The period of economic growth led to a rise in the standard of living and an increased consumer spending, which was reflected in the press through regular reporting on fashion shows, the rise of the national textile industry and Yugoslav fashion design, especially in the late 1960s and throughout the 1970s.
Products of fashion industry originating in the West were carefully selected for reproduction in magazines in accordance with the need to meet the classical ideals of a socialist dress code. By the end of the 1980s, women's press included an increasing number of texts on fashion, which influenced the shaping of individual desires to imitate international models, while in the 1990s many national magazines were discontinued and attention was switched to international ones and their offer.
The Biennial of Industrial Design over the First Twenty Years
??????? ? ???????: ????? ???????? ??????
???????? (?????????????) ???????
In Yugoslavia, the main aim of the BIO exhibition was to connect designers with industry. This was done with considerable success, especially in its first decade, when the Biennial of Industrial Design in Ljubljana was, along with the Milan Triennial, one of the most important design events in Europe; it was also the first such biennial in the world. Large numbers of designers from both Western and Eastern Europe took part in the exhibition.
? ???????????, ?????? ??? ???????? ????????????? ??????? ??? ?? ?????????? ????????? ?? ???????????. ??? ????????????? ?? ?? ??????? ??????? ?????????? ?? ????????, ???????? ????? ???? ???????? ?????????, ???? ?? ???????? ????????????? ??????? ? ???????, ??????? ?? ????????? ??????????, ???? ????? ?? ??????????? ????????????? ? ???? ?? ???????? ? ??????. ????? ????, ???? ?? ?? ? ?????? ???????? ?? ????? ?? ?????. ?? ???????? ?? ?????????? ?????? ???? ????????? ???? ?? ???????, ???? ? ?? ??????? ??????. ?? ??????? ?????? ????????????, ???????? ? ?????????? ?????????, ???????? ?? ?????? ???? ?? ????? ????? ? ???????? ? ?????? ?????????????? ???????. ? ???????? ????? ???????? ? ? ?????????? ?????????, ???????? ?? ?? ?????? ????? ??????? ????????? ???????? ????? ?? ??????? ????????? ????????? ???? ? ??????? ???????????, ???? ? ? ??????? ?????. ????? ???? ??? ???????? ?????????, ???????? ?? ???????? ??????? ??????????? ???? ??? ?????????? ????????? ? ??????????. ????, ??????????? ?????? XX ????, ? ????? ??????????????, ??? ? ????? ???????? ?????? ?????????, ????????????? ??????? ???? ???? ??? ??????????.
ORIGINALITY IN CLOTHING
???????????? ????? ??? ??? ?????????
HOW FAR HAVE WE REACHED WITH THE BOOK?
Interactive Book as a Part of the Spectacle
EUROPEANA FASHION: ????????, ????????? ? ?????????
??????????? Europeana Fashion ?????? ?? 22 ???????? ???? ?? ??????? ??? ?? ?? ?????? Europeana ??????? 700.000 ?????????? ??????, ???? ?????? ???????- ?? ????? ?????????? ????????, ?? ??????????? ??????? ? ?????????, ?? ??????, ????????, ?????, ???????????, ????? ??????, ?????? ???????? ? ??.
???????? Europeana Fashion ?????????? ?? ? ?????? ????? ??????? ?????? (Best Practice Network) ? ????? ?? ?? ?????? ??????? ??????:
?????????? ? ????????? ????????? ????????? ????????? ???????? ?? ??????????? ? ????????- ??????? ????????? ?????? ??????;
??????? ???? ????????????????? ??????? ? ??????????? ??????;
????????? ??????? ?????????? ?????????? ????????? ???????? ??????? ?????????? ????;
??????? ????? ? ??????? ?? ??????????? ???????? ???? ???????? ?????????;
?????????? ???????? ????? ????????? ? ????????, ?? ?????????????? ? ? ????????? ???????.
???????? ?? ???????? ??????? ? ???????? 2015, ? ????? ???? ?? ?? ??????? ???????? ????????. ? ????? ?? ????????? ?? ?? ???????? ???????? ??? ???????? ??????, ? ?? ?? ? ????? ?????????? ?????????? ?????????.
????? ???????? ????????, ???????? ??????? Europeana Fashion ???????? ?? ??????????? ????? ?????????- ????:
???????????? ???????? Europeana Fashion (Europeana Fashion International Association)
? ??????? 2014. ?????? ???????? ?? ??????????? ???????? Europeana Fashion, ???? ?? ?? ???????????? ? ???????. ??????????? ???? ???????????, Europeana Fashion ?? ??????? ?????? ???? ???? ?? ????????? ????????? ???????.
Europeana Fashion ? ?????? ?????????????? ?????????? ??????? ??????? Europeana (Europeana Digital Service Infrastructure)
?????? ????????? 2014. ??????, ????????? Europeana, ??. ?????? ???? ???? ?? ??????? ?????????? Europeana, ??????? ?? ??????? ???????? ? ?????? ??? ?????? ???????? ???? ????????? ???????? ????? ??????????? ?? ?????????? ?????? (Connecting Europe Facility). ??? ??????????? ?? ????????? ???????? Europeana Fashion ?? ???????, ??????? ????????? ????? ? ????????? ????????? ??????.
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TWO 19TH-CENTURY SILVER VOTIVE GIFTS DONATED BY SERBIAN
DONORS IN THE CHURCH OF SAINT SPYRIDON ON CORFU
The first votive gift is the silver vigil lamp donated by the Trieste merchant Hristofor Tuzli? in 1862. The second item is a silver diadem, donated by Marija Kova?evi? of Trieste. The diadem was made between 1874 and 1883 in the form of a flower garland; it is used on festal occasions, when it is placed as a decoration upon the reliquary which contains the relics of the saint. It may be observed that the items donated by Serbian donors conform to the stylistic tendencies of the European applied art of the 19th century. Having in mind that both Hristofor Tuzli? and Marija Kova?evi? were citizens of Trieste, we may assume that both votive gifts originated in some of the goldsmith's workshops of Trieste. The votive gifts made to the church of St Spyridon on Corfu by the mentioned Serbian donors were an expression of personal piety and the veneration of St. Spyridon. Nevertheless, they confirm of the presence of the veneration of the saint among of the wealthy Serbian bourgeoisie in Trieste.
ACQUISITIONS MAA