Journal 13 / 2017 (Museum of Applied Art. Online)

ISSN 2466-460X (Online)
ISSN 0522-8328 (Printed edition)
PDF of the printed edition (12.6 MB)
Editor in Chief: Ljiljana Mileti? ?bramovi?, MA
Issue Editor: Jelena Pera?, MA
Editorial Board:
Sarita Vujkovi?, PhD (Academy of Arts, Banja Luka)
Marta Vukoti? Lazar, PhD (Faculty of Philosophy, Pritina)
Ljiljana Mileti? Abramovi?, MA (Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade)
Jelena Pera?, MA (Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade)
?elena Popovi? (Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade)
Vladimir Simi?, PhD (Faculty of Philosophy, Belgrade)
Maja Studen, MA (Faculty of Applied Arts, Belgrade)
Issue Editorial Assistant: Jelena Popovi?
All the papers in the sections Contributions, Polemics, Critic Reviews and Reviews are peer reviewed.Sarita Vujkovi?, Ph.D., Assistant Professor, University of Banja Luka, Academy of Arts Graphic Design Department
Marta Vukoti? Lazar, Ph.D., Assistant Professor, University of Pritina, Faculty of Philosophy History of Art Department
Tatjana Dadi? Dinulovi?, Ph.D., Professor, University of Novi Sad, Faculty of Technical Sciences Chair of Applied Arts in Architecture and Design
Slobodan Jovanovi?, Senior Curator, Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade
Sylvie Legrand-Rossi, Chief Curator, Museum Nissim de Camondo, Paris, France
Draginja Maskareli, Senior Curator, Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade
Ljiljana Mileti? Abramovi?, MA, Curator, Museum Advisor, Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade
Jelena Pera?, MA, Curator, Museum Advisor, Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade
Mirjana Proi? Dvorni?, Ph. D., Professor, Northwood University, Midland, Michigan, USA
Radosav Pui?, Ph.D., Professor, University of Belgrade, Faculty of Philology Oriental Languages, Literatures and Cultures
Maja Studen, MA, Associate Professor, University of Arts in Belgrade, Faculty of Applied Arts Costume Design Department
Vladimir Simi?, Ph.D., Assistant Professor, University of Belgrade, Faculty of Philosophy History of Art Department
Rastko ?iri?, Professor, University of Arts in Belgrade, Faculty of Applied Arts Applied Graphics Department
Biljana Crvenkovi?, Senior Curator, Museum of Applied Art, Belgrade
Contents of the Jouurnal 13 / 2017 (Museum of Applied Art. Online)
Impressum
Contents
About Journal
AUCTION-INDUCED FORGETTING: the Question of Alienated and Expatriated Legacy of the House of Obrenovi?
????? ??????? ?? ??????? ????? ?? ???? ?? ?? ???????? ????????? ???????? ???????? ???????? ????? ????????????, ? ????????? ?? ???????????? ????????? ?? ????????? ? ???????? (Christie's) 1904. ? ????????? (Dorotheum) 1905, ???? ?? ?????? ??? ?????? ?????? ???? ????????? ?????????. ?? ????????? ????????? ???? ???? ??????????? ?? ????? ????????? ????????????? ????????? ???????? ?? ????????????, ??? ?? ???????? ?? ?? ???????????? ????????? ????????? ? ???? ??????? ???????? ? ?????????? ?????????.
The sales of dynastic effects on domestic soil were but an overture to a far wider auction activities abroad. Thus, on 8 December 1904, Queen Draga's property, consisting of costumes and jewels, was auctioned at Christie's of London, in favour of the late queen's sisters. It sparked interest among bidders and merchants trading in luxuries, who were attracted by the possibility of adding unique items to their collections, whose high-quality craftsmanship was granted by the fact that they had once belonged to a royal persona. Nevertheless, despite the initial pomp, the prices realised were far below expectation.
The subsequent sale at the Viennese Dorotheum, from 10 to 16 October 1905, was not only the largest in terms of quantity of the Obrenovi? memorabilia, but also in number of items offered to this auction house up to that point. Comprised of complete suites of furniture, silver, glass, and porcelain services, decorative objects, gifts of crowned heads and statesmen, and works of art, this auction was unparalleled in attesting to the court culture during the reign of the last Obrenovi? rulers. It was initiated for fundraising purposes by Queen Nathalie, but motives of a more personal nature primarily, the necessity of forgetting the tragic past these articles evoked prompted her to make such a decision, the decision which has once again underlined that the meanings with which we invest objects most often prevail over their artistic and utility features.
Though on a much smaller scale, assets related to members of the House of Obrenovi? have continued to be subject to trade and auction transfers over the course of the 20th and into the 21st centuries. Rare instances in which a portion of the 'expatriated' legacy managed to find its way back to Serbian museum collections are primarily the result of private initiatives, rather than due to a wider cultural platform.
MUSEUM OF APPLIED ART IN BELGRADE AND THE BEGINNINGS OF FASHION MUSEOLOGY IN SERBIA: Department of Textile and Costume 19501980
Over the years, the Department's fashion collection was supplied with new items through purchase and gifts. The acquisitions included clothing items such as gowns, cloaks, underwear and suits, as well as various accessories: caps, hats, head adornments, footwear, belts, bags, umbrellas, handkerchiefs, walking sticks or business card boxes. The acquisition policy was primarily focused on the items of Serbian provenance, although the collection also included objects from other regions and cultures. This period was completed and closed in 1980 by a major study exhibition curated by Dobrila Stojanovi? Urban Dress in Serbia in the 19th and Early 20th Century. Together with the extensive exhibition catalogue, it is still a reference point for further study of the history of Serbian fashion. From today's perspective, it can be concluded that the Museum achieved significant results in this pioneering work, providing a solid foundation for the modern development of museology in general and particularly fashion museology.
CONTEMPORARY CURATORIAL PRACTICES AND STAGE DESIGN
MARIJA DRAGOJLOVI?: a Retro-View on a Family Photo Archive
This is, in brief, the procedure used in creating Marija Dargojlovi?'s paintings from the series Nostalgia and Fragments of Time, exhibited in galleries and museums in Novi Sad, Subotica, Belgrade and Banja Luka in 2015 and 2016. The above-mentioned multimedia works should be seen as artefacts and relics of a family history, transferred to the repository of postmodern art after these interventions. The retro-perspective and empathy for the family photo archive, extended to the public space of galleries and museums, endowed the painting workshop of Marija Dragojlovi? not only with retro-techniques, such as retouching, rephotographing and enlarging analogue photographs, but also with an intention to shape a new visual format: a profane family icon.
TRACING THE ORIGINS OF A DECORATION: from a Parisian Mansion toArt Objects. Exchanges among European Workshops in the 17th Century
La Suite de pices ornementales, un recueil de douze planches, sign par Franois Bignon (ca.1620-post1668) et Zacharie Heince (16111669), semble s'inspirer des dcors de l'htel parisien du chancelier Pierre Sguier (15881672). Aujourd'hui disparu, l'htel Sguier fut ramnag au milieu du XVIIme sicle. En quelques annes, ces dcors furent repris par les artisans de deux centres de production de cramiques parmi les plus importants en Europe aux XVIIme et XVIIIme sicles: Nevers et Castelli.
La ville de Nevers, situe au centre de la France, a pu profiter d'une position stratgique, au milieu des routes commerciales entre Paris et Lyon. Les recherches rcentes confirment que les artisans nivernais taient trs actifs sur le chantier versaillais. En Italie, les cramistes de Castelli utilisent, aux mmes dates que leurs homologues franais, les sujets de la Suite de pices ornementales. Il s'agit d'une trace des contacts existants entre les deux ateliers, confirms par le partage d'autres sources iconographiques inattendues.
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????? ?? XVII ????, ????????? ???????? ??????? ???? ?????? ?????????????? ???? ?? ?????? ? ????? ???????? ??????????, ??? ????? ? ?????? ?? ??????????? ?????. ????????? ??? ???? XIV (16381715) ? ???????? ??????????? ????? ??? ??? ?? ????????? ?????? ???????????? ?? ????? ??? ????????????. ???? ??????????? ?????? ????????? ? ??????????? ????????? ??????????, ???? ?? ?? ????????? ? ???????? ???????????? ?????????????? ???????????, ??????? ?? ? ?? ??????????? ????????? ? ????? ???????? ???????.
??????? ?? ?? ??? ????????????? ????? (Suite de pices ornementales), ?????? ?? ???????? ????????? ??????? ???? ????????? ??????? ????? (Franois Bignon, ??? 16201668) ? ?????? ??? (Zacharie Heince, 16111669), ??????????? ???????? ????????? ?????? ????????? ????? ?????? (Pierre Sguier, 15881672). ???? ???????? ?????, ???? ????? ???? ?? ???????, ?????????? ?? ???????? XVII ????. ????? ???????? ??????, ?????????? ??? ?????? ???????? ?? ????????? ?? ??? ?????? ?? ?????????? ????????, ?????? (Nevers) ? ????????? (Castelli), ???? ?? ? XVII ? XVIII ???? ??????? ? ????????????? ???????? ?????? ? ???? ??????? ??????????.
???? ?????, ? ?????????? ??????????, ?????????? ?? ????????? ??????? ?? ?????????? ?????????? ?????? ???? ??????? ????? ? ????. ????????? ??????? ??????????? ????????? ?? ?? ????????? ?? ?????? ???? ????? ??????? ?? ?????????? ??????????. ? ????? ?????? ???????, ? ???????, ?????????? ?? ????????? ??????? ???? ?? ???? ????????????? ????? ? ???? ????? ???? ? ?????? ????????? ?????? ?? ??????. ?? ?? ??? ????? ???? ????????? ???? ?? ????????? ?????? ??? ??? ?????????, ? ???? ?? ????????? ? ?????? ? ?????, ?????? ??????????? ???????????? ??????.
The Suite of Ornamental Pieces (Suite de pices ornementales), a set of twelve engraved plates, signed by Franois Bignon (ca. 1620 after 1668) and Zacharie Heince (16111669), seems to be inspired by the decorations made in the mid-17th century in the Parisian mansion of the chancellor Pierre Seguier (15881672) which are now non-existent. In the following years, these patterns were adopted by craftsmen in the two most important European centres of pottery production in the 17th and 18th centuries: Nevers and Castelli.
The city of Nevers, in central France, benefited from a strategic location close to trade routes, halfway between Paris and Lyon. Moreover, recent research proves that the artisans of Nevers were active participants at the construction site of Versailles. At the same time, the Italian potters working in Castelli introduced subjects from the Suite. This study tracks the contacts and active communication between the two studios, confirmed by the fact that they shared other unexpected iconographic sources.
A GUILD BOOK COVER OR A LUXURIOUS MEMORIAL ALBUM? Contribution to the Study of Luxury Bookbinding
The thorough analysis of the object has brought to light new data. The discovery of legends in German, inscribed on the background of all four miniatures, has made it possible to explain the miniature scenes in medallions; they represent Commerce (Handel), Banking (Bankhaus), Accounting (Buchhaltung, Beamte), and Industry (Industrie). During the research, close analogies were found in a group of bindings designed as decorative albums in the collections of the Austrian National Library in Vienna, the Museum of Applied Art in Budapest, and the Museum of Vojvodina in Novi Sad. The analogies have enabled the author of the article to identify the luxurious binding as a memorial album made as a gift to an unidentified owner of the monogram and to establish the identity of the craftsman who made it. It was Jzsef Morzsnyi, the leading bookbinder and medalist in Budapest, active from 1870 until the late 1930s. The author also argues that the painter of the miniatures may have been Ernst August Krahl (18581926), a German painter who resided in Vienna, but was comissioned to design a throne chair for the Hungarian Millenial Exposition in 1896, the very year the album in the Jagodina museum is dated to.
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BECOMING-A-TITLE-SEQUENCE: Digital Animation in Television Series Title Sequences
ACQUISITIONS MAA