KATARINA NINA SIMON?I?
Fasion and Textile Historian. Department of Textile and Clothing Design of the Faculty of Textile Technology, Zagreb
ODJEVNA PROIZVODNJA ZAGREBA U RAZDOBLJU SECESIJE
THE CLOTHING PRODUCTION IN ZAGREB IN THE SECESSION PERIOD
Journal 7/2011 (Museum of Applied Art), pages 41-52
UDC:
3391.2:687.1(497.5)"18/19" ; 7.05:646.4(497.5)"19/20"
?? 188181516
Abstract (original language):
Rad istrauje i donosi pregled zagreba?ke tekstilne proizvodnje razdoblja secesije. Naglasak rada je na modnim oblicima namijenjenim enama ?ija je osnovna uloga bila, odjevnim izgledom, ukazati na financijsku mo? supruga. Proizvodnja i prodaja odjevnog asortimana smjeta se u dvije glavne zagreba?ke ulice gdje se uz doma?e modne oblike nalaze i inozemni artikli. Osim prvih tekstilnih tvornica, zna?ajnu ulogu o oblikovanju zagreba?kog modnog stila imaju modni kroja?i kolovani u inozemstvu. Svojim modnim izri?ajem koji prati europske modne tokove, oblikuju vlastiti stil, te ujedno aktivnim drutvenim angamanom doprinose boljem poloaju obrtnika - kroja?a. Zagreba?ka moda bila je pod jakim utjecajem triju modnih centara: Pariza, Be?a i Londona, kako u stilskom izri?aju, tako i u na?inu prezentiranja mode na onodobnim drutvenim okupljalitima. Najzna?ajniji doprinos u oblikovanju zagreba?ke mode ipak ima Pariz, na to ukazuje modni tisak, ponuda parikog asortimana, te odjevni oblici proizali iz zagreba?kih modnih salona. Istraivanje se temelji na relevantnoj povijesnoj literaturi, istraivanju podataka u dravnom povijesnom arhivu, onodobnom modnom tisku, te sa?uvanim odjevnim predmetima. Podaci se analiziraju i uspore?uju u cilju povijesnog pregleda do sada neistraenog segmenta. Svrha rada je ukazati na po?etak otvaranja modnih poslovnica u dvije glavne zagreba?ke ulice na ?ijim se povijesnim lokacijama proizvodnja i prodaja mode zadrala i tijekom XX stolje?a, te ujedno na mali zagreba?ki doprinos europskoj modnoj slici po?etka XX stolje?a kroz proizvodnju Industrije Salamona Bergera.
Key words: (original language)
Gjuro Mati?, moda secesije, modni kroja?i, modni saloni, Salamon Berger, tekstilne tvornice, zagreba?ka moda
Summary:
The fashion in Zagreb at the turn of the 19th century was under strong influence of Paris and Vienna. Zagreb, within the Austro-Hungarian empire, aspires to the culture and fashion of Vienna where the emphasis was on ready-made clothing production. Paris was oriented towards haute couture during the period of Secession, thus becoming the crucial point as regards trading routes and fashion impacts. It was in 1895 that Zagreb symbolically gave the title Parika moda (Parisian Fashion) to its first fashion journal in Croatian.
This paper focuses on two Zagreb central streets which tailored, produced, presented and traded fashion. Textile production places, fashion salons, fashion tailors as well as textile and clothing assortments of home and foreign provenance are described. Due attention is paid to the fashion press of the period, which used to note fashion events, gatherings, presentation spaces and in the same time to inform about fashion trends. Significant source of information for the reconstruction of clothing production in Zagreb offered advertisements published in the press placed by fashion houses, stores, factories and tradesmen. Their offers included dress items, accessories, and specialised terms for various fabrics.
The emphasis in the paper is on comparative researches both of Zagreb fashion and of other centres so that a comprehensive insight into the fashion development in the area may be accomplished. Women's fashion is described to a large extent since the press paid greater attention to it. The clothing of a woman expressed her husband's financial standing and it also served as status indicator related to young unmarried women. Like all bigger capitals, Zagreb also had ladies representing fashion. They either belonged to nobility or were opera divas and actresses. The Zagreb fashion in the period of Secession was most deeply marked by the work of Gjuro Mati?, fashion tailor trained in Paris as well as by contribution of the Industry of Salomon Berger, which by applying traditional elements on the fashion clothing shaped the autochthonous expression present in foreign markets also.
You can download PDF of the article 
(1.2 MB)