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Independent researcher, Belgrade, Serbia
jokicbojana@yahoo.com
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MILITARY UNIFORM AND FASHION FROM THE MIDDLE 19TH TO THE BEGINNING OF 20TH CENTURY
Journal 16/2020 (Museum of Applied Art), pages 19-27
Article category: original scientific paper
UDC:
355.141(497.11)?18/19?
6875.01(497.11)?18/19?
Abstract (original language):
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Key words: (original language)
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Summary:
Encouraged by the studies of clothing and fashion, we have observed the uniform and fashion clothing in Serbia from the middle of the 19th to the beginning of the 20th century. We have paid special attention to the performativity of the Serbian army uniform, which is what it has in common with modern fashion clothing, and it relates to the discipline of the individual, the fixation of identity and social differentiation.
Attention has been drawn to the changes in the appearance of the Serbian army during the 19th and at the beginning of the 20th century, which fits into the main trends of European military fashion. The uniform, as modern clothing, encouraged a new way of production, and the officer's suit was an incentive for the development of consumer culture in Serbia. It was also an important constituent in fixating social identities.
Men's civilian suit was often described as 'uniform', while the colourful vividness and decorativeness of the uniform were the characteristics that brought it closer to the way a woman's body was dressed. Due to its splendour, the parade uniform, like a woman's dress, attracted attention, but other types of military clothing were also in service of constant supervision over the uniformed body in public. Military uniform shared strict rules of wearing with men's clothing, depending on the occasion, which was another way of disciplining an individual.
Comparing military uniforms and civilian clothing, noticing their similarities and differences from the point of view of their meanings and functions in society, provides an opportunity to better understand the role that clothing in Serbia in the 19th century had in the construction of collective identity.
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