SARA PACI PICCOLO
Individual Researcher, Adjunct Faculty, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York/Florence
piccolo93@gmail.com
BETWEEN SHAPE AND IMAGE: Hypothesis of Research on Three 16th Century Paintings, with the Aid of the Study on Half Scale Mannequins
?????? ?????? ? ?????: ???????? ??????????? ??? ????? ?? 16. ???? ??????????? ????????? ?????? ? ??????? 1:2
Journal 17/2021 (Museum of Applied Art), pages 87-95
Article category: review article
UDC:
75.034.049"15":391
7.05"15"
COBISS.SR-ID 53947657
Abstract (original language):
The aesthetic of a dress, the techniques of its construction, and the understanding of its meanings are relevant to the research of material and immaterial culture. It is clear that, yesterday as today, the dress was a powerful expression of individuality and identity - there was no choice to dress casually.
In this essay, I will analyse three portraits dating back to the early 16th century, by Raphael and artists of his circle, elaborating three working hypotheses of tailor-made reconstructions of their upper garments to better understand the message contained in the choice of the dress made by each portrayed person.
Therefore, I will use the study on half scale tailoring mannequins with the aim of proposing a research methodology which combines data from different sources with the concrete possibility to identify the various elements from a sartorial point of view. The additional value of the research lies in not confusing the reconstructive hypothesis for copies or stage costumes, which allows keeping distance from the original object while helping define its tridimensionality and tailoring assets.
Key words: (original language)
history of clothing iconography, historical tailoring, half scale research methodology, Raphael's portraits, Renaissance tailoring
Summary:
???????? ??????, ??????? ???? ???????????? ? ?????????? ????? ??????? ?????????? ?? ?? ??????????? ??????????? ? ????????????? ???????. ????? ?? ?? ??, ???? ??? ? ?????, ?????? ???? ?????? ????? ??????????????? ? ?????????? ????? ????? ????????? ?? ?? ???????? ???????.
?????????, ??? ???????? ??????, ????????? ??????? ???? ?????? ? ??????? ???????????? ? ???? ????? ????????: ????, ?????? ? ????????? ?? ?????? ???????????? ????? ???? ????? ??????? ? ???????? ???????, ? ?? ?? ???? ??????. ???? ???????? ?? ?? ? ?????????? ? ?????????? ???? ????? ?? ??????? ?????????? ???????? ? ???????? ? ????????.
? ???? ????? ??????????? ??? ???????? ?? ????? 16. ????, ???? ?? ?????? ??????? ? ???????? ?? ??????? ?????, ? ????????? ??? ????? ???????? ? ?????????????? ?????? ??????? ???????? ???? ?? ?????? ?? ???? ???? ????? ???? ???????? ?????? ???????? ? ?????? ?????? ????? ?? ????????????? ????????.
???? ???? ?? ????????? ??????? ? ????????? ??????? ? ??????? 1:2 ?? ????? ?? ????????? ???????????? ???????????? ???? ????????? ??????? ?? ?????????? ?????? ?? ?????????? ?????????? ?? ?? ????????? ???????? ???????????? ?? ???????? ????? ????????. ??????? ???????? ???? ??????????? ???? ? ????? ?? ?? ??????????????? ???????? ?? ?????? ?? ???????? ??? ???????? ?????????, ??? ????????? ?????? ???????? ?? ??????????? ???????, ? ??????????? ?????? ? ?????????? ?????? ??????????????????? ? ????????? ????????.
You can download PDF of the article 
(214 KB)