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COSTUME DESIGN AND CONTEMPORARY FASHION: ?n the ?xample of the ?heatrical Costumes of Vela Nigrinova, the Leading Actress of the National Theatre in Belgrade

Зборник 18/2022 (Музеј примењене уметности), страна 42-50

Категорија чланка: ?????????? ?????? ???

УДК:
792.024:687.16(497.11)"18/19"
391.2(497.11)"18/19"
792.071.2.028:929 ????????? ?.

Апстракт:
???? ???? ?? ????? ?????? ?????????????? ? ???? ??????? ?????? XIX ? ???????? XX ???? ?? ??????? ??????? ???? ?? ?????? ???? ????????? (18621908), ?????? ??????? ? ???????? ???????? ????????? ? ????????. ????????? ????? ????? ??????????? ? ??????? ?????????????? ??? ??? (? ????? ?? ???????????? ?? ??? ?????? ? ??????? ?? ??????? XXI ????) ????????????? ?? ? ???????? ????????? ????????? ? ?? ??????? ? ????? ?????????? ? ????? ????????? ????? ?????? ???? ??????? ? ??????????????, ???? ?? ? ????????? ??????????? ????????? ???????? ?? ???????? ????????? ????????? ? ???????? ?????????? ???????. ?????? ?? ?????? ???????? ????????? ? ???????? ????????? (18821908) ??????????????? ?? ???? ??? ?? ?? ???????? ??????????? ??????? ?????? ???? ? ????????? ????????. ??? ??? ?????????? ??????? ???? ?? ?????? ???? ?????????, ?? ?????? ????????? ???????????, ?????????? ??????? ? ?????????? ?????? ?? ????????? ???????? ?????????, ? ?? ???? ??? ?? ????????????? ? ????????? ????????? ???????? ?????????? ? ??????????????, ????? ??? ?? ???????? ?? ?? ??????? ????????? ? ???????? ???? ? ????? ?? ??????????? ? ?????.

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Summary:
The subject of this paper is the relation between costume design and fashion at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century on the example of costumes worn by Vela Nigrinova (1862 1908), the famous and leading actress of the National Theatre in Belgrade. Research of costume design in our country is rare and concentrated mostly in the field of theatre arts and precludes the specific and often two-way relation between fashion and costume design, which in some historical periods is important for understanding certain processes in creating theatre costumes. In the 19th century, the appearance of the first fashion designers and fashion houses was reflected in costume design in the form of a specific connection between haute couture and the theatres in Europe. The theatre costumes worn by Vela Nigrinova seen in this context indicate that the approach to costume design at the National Theatre in Belgrade was the same as elsewhere in the world. As an artist, Nigrinova had the power to become an example of elegance and style on stage, such as Madeleine Guimard, Marie Taglioni or Sarah Bernhardt, and perhaps inspire and impact the taste and clothing of the ladies in the audience who at that time had abandoned the last Oriental elements in clothing and replaced them with appealing European fashion.

Translated by the author

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